Cashmere Quality Explained: What Grade Actually Means
May 20, 2026 — Mercer St.
Cashmere is one of the most widely misrepresented materials in fashion. The word appears on garments ranging from thin, pilling sweaters to the finest knitwear in the world. The difference between them is real, and it is measurable — but the language used to describe cashmere quality is often imprecise or deliberately vague.
This note explains what cashmere grading actually means, what the key variables are, and what Golden Cashmere is — including where the term comes from and what it does and does not claim.
In this note
- What cashmere is and where it comes from
- How cashmere is graded — and why fibre diameter is the primary measure
- Why consistency matters as much as average fineness
- What Golden Cashmere is, where the term comes from, and what it claims
- What a cashmere label does and does not tell you
What cashmere is
Cashmere comes from the undercoat of the cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger). The goat produces a fine, insulating underdown beneath a coarser outer coat. The underdown is combed or sheared once a year in spring, then sorted and dehaired to separate the fine fibres from the coarser guard hairs. What remains is the cashmere used in yarn and fabric.
A single cashmere goat yields approximately 150–200 grams of usable fibre per year. Global annual production is estimated at around 6,000–7,000 tonnes of cleaned fibre. China accounts for the majority of production, with significant contributions from Mongolia, Iran, and Afghanistan.
How cashmere is graded
Cashmere is graded primarily by fibre diameter, measured in microns (μm). Finer fibres produce a softer, smoother yarn. The scale matters:
- Below 14μm: very rare; associated with the finest available cashmere
- 14–15μm: fine; at the upper end of what is considered premium
- 15–16μm: good commercial quality; Inner Mongolian cashmere typically falls here
- 16–18μm: standard commercial; used in most mid-market cashmere products
- Above 18μm: coarser; may feel scratchy against sensitive skin
Mercer Note
"Grade A cashmere" is not a standardised designation. Different suppliers, brands, and countries use different grading systems. The most reliable quality indicator is the actual fibre diameter in microns — which is rarely stated on consumer labels.
Why consistency matters
Fibre diameter alone is not the full picture. A cashmere with an average diameter of 15μm but high variation — some fibres at 12μm, others at 19μm — will behave differently in yarn and fabric than a cashmere with the same average but very low variation.
Low variation in fibre diameter produces a more even yarn. A more even yarn produces a more consistent fabric surface, better stitch definition, and more predictable behaviour in finishing and care. This is why serious cashmere evaluation considers both average diameter and coefficient of variation — not average diameter alone.
Fibre length and pilling
Alongside diameter, fibre length is the other primary quality indicator. Longer fibres can be spun into a more stable yarn with fewer fibre ends protruding from the surface. Shorter fibres are more likely to work their way to the surface over time and form pills.
Pilling is a natural behaviour of cashmere and is not a sign of poor quality in itself. All cashmere pills to some degree. The degree and rate of pilling depends on fibre length, yarn twist, knit structure, and how the garment is worn and cared for. A fabric comb can be used to remove pills without damaging the fabric.
What Golden Cashmere is
Golden Cashmere is a specific cashmere handled by Fukaki Industries (深喜毛織), a Japanese textile manufacturer. The following is drawn from Fukaki’s product descriptions and is attributed to them. [VERIFY: confirm Fukaki attribution and figures before publishing]
According to Fukaki, Golden Cashmere comes from cashmere goats in Shandong Province, eastern China. The goats in this region have an outer coat described as golden-brown to reddish — hence the name. The usable fibre is the underdown, which is a light natural tone.
Fukaki states that the annual yield of this fibre from Shandong Province is approximately 2 tonnes, with an average fibre diameter of approximately 14 microns and very low diameter variation. These figures, if accurate, place Golden Cashmere at the finer end of commercial cashmere production.
Mercer Note
The figures for Golden Cashmere — 14 micron average diameter, approximately 2 tonne annual yield from Shandong Province — come from Fukaki Industries’ product descriptions. Mercer St. has not independently verified these figures. They are presented as supplier-attributed claims, not as independently confirmed data.
"Grade A cashmere" is a marketing phrase. Fibre diameter in microns is a measurement.
What a cashmere label tells you — and does not
A label that says "100% cashmere" confirms fibre content. It says nothing about fibre diameter, consistency, length, origin, spinning, or finishing. A label that says "Grade A" uses a term with no standardised meaning. A label that names an origin (Inner Mongolia, Shandong, Scotland) tells you where the fibre was processed or the garment was made — not necessarily where the fibre came from.
The most reliable way to evaluate cashmere is to handle it. A well-selected, well-spun cashmere has a particular hand — smooth, with a slight weight and a quiet drape — that is recognisable once you have felt it.
What to look for
- Is fibre diameter stated in microns?
- Is the origin of the raw fibre — not just the manufacturing location — identified?
- Is the yarn construction described (gauge, ply, twist)?
- Are care instructions specific and honest about pilling and washing?
What this means for Mercer St.
Cashmere selection at Mercer St. is based on physical sampling and attention to fibre specification, yarn construction, and finishing. Where Golden Cashmere from Fukaki is used, this is noted on the product page with the appropriate attribution. Specific fibre and production details are confirmed with the supplier before any product-specific claims are published.